Despite significant online opposition, Gail’s opening yesterday saw a healthy stream of customers and packed out tables, reports Marco Marcelline
Amid a backdrop of media fanfare around what appeared to be a community united by its opposition to the arrival of a bakery chain, some staff at Gail’s were anticipating slow sales, empty seats and maybe even a couple of protesters.
Instead its opening yesterday (3rd October) saw a healthy stream of customers who packed out tables and munched on croissants.
In August, nearly 2,000 residents signed a petition against Gail’s, stating it could “overshadow” the “much-loved independent businesses on Orford Road, and “dismantle the character and diversity crucial to Walthamstow’s charm”.
As the smell of freshly roasted Gail’s coffee drifted along Orford Road that concern was articulated by locals, though in a more restrained fashion than the petition. Cameron Conant, who works at nearby St Mary’s Church, said he hoped Gail’s would have a “minimal” negative impact on the street, and was confident it wouldn’t affect the cafe at St Mary’s.
“Our cafe [operated by local business Ruttle and Rowe] is offering something different; for one, it’s based in the oldest building in Walthamstow, and we have a play area for kids. It’s a community hub.”
Like others who the Echo spoke to yesterday, he added that he did have some concerns that Gail’s would push up rent for other businesses, and cause financial pain for direct competitors but ultimately he said he would “wait and see” its overall impact.
A shop assistant told the Echo she was well aware of the controversy surrounding the opening, and was surprised to see quite a lot of custom, despite the threat of a boycott.
Photos shared by the chain on Facebook show rows of tables filled with customers yesterday morning. The interior features colourful illustrations by London artist Christopher Brown; in a shout-out to Walthamstow, one shows the Victorian-era designer and socialist activist William Morris drinking a flat white.
Gail’s has also committed to sharing food waste with two food banks, Walthamstow’s Rukhsana Khan Foundation, and Masjid Tawhid in Leyton.
Phil Marsh, a local resident of two years, said he welcomed the addition of Gail’s to Orford Road, and complimented the colour scheme and brightness of its interior. “I like Gail’s, I seek it out, and will definitely be coming here regularly. It’s a great addition to the Village, and I think it will be popular.”
Passer-by Steven was also pleased with Gail’s opening. Stating his priority as a customer was quality, he said: “If an independent is serving crap coffee at a higher price why would I go there? I’ve been to Today Bread and their coffee is terrible so I’d rather go to Gail’s.”
There were some, like Duncan, who were staunchly against Gail’s. Saying he was one of the thousands who signed a viral petition against its opening, he took aim at its “links to Israel”.
“I will be boycotting and telling others to do the same. Anything that has links to Israel should not be welcome here given the genocide that is happening.”
Gail’s was founded by the Israeli baker Gail Mejia and the businessman Ran Avidan, but was acquired by Bread Holdings in 2011 which is run by Tom Molnar, who is British.
Part-owner Luke Johnson has attracted attention for sharing articles from right-wing media outlets slamming “wokeness” and decrying “the deranged defence of Hamas” at university campuses.
In an interview with The Times defending Gail’s against allegations of backing Israel, Molnar said: “Gail’s proudly has Jewish roots and there’s plenty of stuff out there celebrating our heritage and history, but it’s not true it’s Israel-owned.
“There’s some just crazy stuff on the web thinking we are funding Israel, which is just completely ridiculous. We’re a wholly UK-based business, paying UK taxes, it’s just ludicrous and I think it needs to be called out.”
Duncan, who did not want to give his last name, added that he was also unhappy with the “extortionate” pricing which would “prevent” working class people from going there.
One of those people who would be ‘priced out’ by the arrival of Gail’s was Maxine, who singled out the £4 price tag for a flat white, and said she simply would not be able to go.
Meanwhile, long-time Walthamstow Village resident Luay Al-Khatib said that while he wasn’t upset at Gail’s arrival, it wasn’t offering him anything new. Stating that he and his partner will continue to buy sourdough bread from the local Spar, he said it would’ve been better if a butchers or a cheesemongers had opened instead.
Local businesses have mostly reacted to the chain’s arrival with resigned criticism and caution. Melvin Venables, who runs popular brunch spot The Kitchen previously told the Echo it was “a shame” that a chain, which was “not [his] cup of tea”, could come to Orford Road.
While he wasn’t worried that it would pose a threat to his own business, he expressed concern it could financially knock the three independent bakeries that operate on Orford Road.
He also predicted that local opposition to Gail’s would eventually die down: “People say they won’t go now but they probably will when it opens. The big risk is that other chains may move in.”
Another independent business owner on Orford Road who did not want to give his name said he had reservations about Gail’s partly because of its “awful part-owner and his terrible views”.
While admitting the arrival of the bakery chain wouldn’t harm his business and it may increase footfall to the area, he said he was worried about the risk of landlords increasing rents to entice more chains to the high street.
Criticising the landlord’s decision to rent the space to a chain, he said: “The landlord quite selfishly chose not to divide it into two units, he’s effectively cut off most avenues to independent businesses coming on. I’ve heard there were independent businesses that wanted to move into the space but what [the landlord] is charging for that space is unaffordable.”
He added: “I don’t think any chain on Orford Road is a good idea.”
It appears that some Orford Road businesses may have pre-empted their losses. Restaurant and bistro Eat17 yesterday announced they would be shutting on 16th October after 17 years in business. In a statement on social media, owners Chris O’Connor and James Brundle said: “This decision was not made lightly and something we have deliberated for quite a while, but the rising cost pressures in the industry have become too much to bear and as we prepare for Eat 17’s next chapter we recognise the need for change and growth.”
Meanwhile, further down the road The Village Bakery has been on the market for several months. EstateEast are pushing the famous bakery as a “great opportunity to join the next phase of Orford Road”. Offers in excess of £300,000 are being accepted for a leasehold shop with a basement and a forecourt seating area.
Yesterday evening, a mother and her teenage daughter standing outside Gail’s were weighing up the ethical considerations of buying a coffee at the chain with their concerns for independent businesses. Stating they also had qualms about the political standpoints of the owners, they eventually relented and soon emerged, evidently pleased, with a hot drink in hand.
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